Day 09: Train to the Base of Machu Picchu

We had another early start as we packed up to check out of Ninos Hotel–onto the van and off to the station where we were to board the train to Aguas Calientes. It was about a 30 minute drive and we appeared to be among the first to arrive for the 7:45 AM train.

The station was great, and when it got close to time to board, I saw the train attendants having a meeting on the platform. The doors were still closed so we couldn’t venture out there yet. The meeting went on for quite some time and was a hint to me that if a lot else about the transportation in Peru seems kind of catch-as-catch-can, the train was going to be different. Indeed it was.

We had assigned seats on Car A. For this train that was car 1799, which you can see in the picture is a Cusco-Machupicchu train. The picture inside shows the spacious seating and the roof windows through which we could catch wonderful glimpses of the mountains above us. The seats were comfortable, too.

Gwenn and I sat across a couple from Singapore and the UK. They were both young doctors and were doing some extensive travel in South America before they headed back to their full-time jobs.

I took some scenery shots along the way. It struck me how the land features look so much like other places I know–say, Colorado in the US. A mountain stream is beautiful in any country. The thing that seems to really set one place off from another is the architecture, and the people, of course.

We did a quick stop at Ollantaytambo, where we’ll be spending one night on the way back to Cusco. Then we continued on, eventually reaching the very pleasant town of Aguas Calientes. Oh, I might mention that the train service included a snack (some pretzels and a chocolate-covered biscuit of some sort, plus a cup of water), and a sales pitch for some souvenirs. Don’t fall over–I actually purchased a DVD of Peru’s main sites. It’s never certain what the weather will be while we’re here, and in case we don’t have much sun, I want some professional footage in hand.

Once those of us who had purchased items paid for them at the station, we headed off by foot to our hotel, quaintly named Gringo Bill’s. If you want to check it out, their website is www.gringobills.com. Here we pretty much dumped our stuff and headed out to lunch.

While we were eating, a four-person band set up across the sidewalk from us and played some great music. They knew their stuff, both musically and marketing-wise. The lead flute player (whose back you see in the picture) made frequent eye contact . As we were about to leave, another one of the band members offered us CDs of their music. After Gwenn talked them down on the price (thanks Gwenn!), I bought one at the reduced price, since I really had enjoyed what they’d played. I’ll be interested in hearing what I’ve purchased! And the interesting thing was that as we left, they did, too. I guess they find a likely group and set up to play just for them. Interesting.

After lunch we walked to where we’d catch the bus to Machu Picchu. This is quite an operation, with busses leaving about every half-hour, or when they’re full, I guess. In the midst of the pictures at the site, you’ll see one of the long road with lots of switchbacks. That’s the bus route up.

Now, if you happen to miss the last bus out, your only option is to walk down. They have put in concrete steps that cut straight down, but oh my gosh! They’re very steep and I can’t even imagine how many steps that would be. If I had to do that, I’d probably do a combination of those and walking the road itself. That wouldn’t be as fast, but it wouldn’t be as dangerous either.

Anyway, the picture of the steps up to what looks like a ticket station is just that. It’s the entrance to the site. Before we went up there I visited the banos (bathroom). It cost 1 sole and as you paid, you got some toilet paper off the roll right there at the entrance. Then it was in for a quick visit.

I haven’t mentioned one feature of every bathroom here in Peru. No matter where we’ve stopped, hotel or restaurant, or other site, you don’t flush the toilet paper. There’s always a can to put it in. Dropping it in the toilet was a bit of a difficult habit to break, but now that we’ve been on this trip for a full week, I think I’m getting it!

The first picture of the Machu Picchu site is the standard tourist stuff. It’s what you see after climbing some steep stairs and come out into the flat area. But you know what? That’s my picture and I’m here! Wayne was kind enough to take my picture to prove just that. I’m so often not in the pictures because I’m the one taking them, but this one I wanted to be in!

Huayna Picchu is the mountain in the background. Some may hike that on our last morning here. Not sure if I’m up for that!

Following the helpful “Continue” signs, we headed up the trail to the Inca Bridge. The sun came out briefly so I grabbed a picture from this different perspective.

Right after that picture is one of the Sun Gate. This break in the mountains would be our second hike of the afternoon.

After the obligatory picture of the group, which a Spanish lady offered to take (with about 6 cameras, which she was very gracious about!), we continued on to the Inca Bridge. In the picture, L to R, are Franja, Wayne, Steve, Pam, Gwenn, me, Linda, and Kip. What a great group, and all good looking too, wouldn’t you say? 🙂

The sign helpfully pointed our way to “PTE INKA,” “PTE” being an abbreviation for the Spanish word for bridge. One picture back to Machu Picchu town, then it was up the trail. The trail is very steep, rocky, and uneven. Where there are steps, there might be a few short ones and then several (or more) very long ones. This was what Steve called the “easy” hike. Well, it reminded me a lot of the trip I took to Yosemite some years ago. Up, up, and up. Many stairs. Huff, puff, rest. Do it all over again. I was often at the back of the group, but I guess that’s a position I’ve gotten used to. Seems to be my natural place, between taking pictures, taking naturally short steps, and being at high elevation, it was a struggle. But the Inka Bridge was pretty impressive, I have to say.

Steve said that the last time he’d taken this trail, he wasn’t able to go as far as we did today. Everyone wanted pictures at the barrier, which showed this ingenious structure. I got Pam and Steve, then Linda and Kip, then Wayne got one of me. This was another place I wanted proof that I was there!.

The Inkas had built up the trail and then intentionally left a gap that they filled with planks. If the town was threatened, they pulled up the planks and left the gap. It would be very, very difficult to find a way around that, and while trying to do that, anyone caught there would be sitting ducks. Oh, and notice that you can see the “flying steps” for climbing up and down. On these mountains, there just aren’t alternatives for approaching the town

Then we went back the way we’d come, passing Machu Picchu town again, we headed off the other way to Intipukku, or the Sun Gate (I think). This was an even steeper and more difficult climb, but once I got started, I wasn’t going to stop. You can see the pictures of the town looking back from this different perspective, along with part of the switch-back road.

I finally reached the top to join the others who were dandling feet over the edge, looking back at the fabulous view. I had been climbing with just a shirt since I was generating my own heat. At the top, however, I put on another layer because it was quite cool.

Just after 4 PM, we all started to drift back down the trail. It was a shorter trip back down, but there were still stairs and all those rocks to contend with. Reminds me a lot of the hiking trip I took at Yosemite some years ago. Killer on the feet, all those rocks.

As we got back to the town, someone spotted a couple of llamas grazing on the terraces to the right of the town. As I blew up this picture, I noticed there was apparently a shepherd with them. The two llamas are at one level (a tan one and a dark brown one). The shepherd is sitting on the jutting stone on the terrace below, keeping an eye on them. Nice way to end the day.

Well, end it except for the many stairs back down to where we got on the bus to head back into town. I’m thinking hot shower soon. The other folks are out searching various dinner spots and have promised to bring something back for me. I knew I couldn’t do that and this all tonight, so the blog won!

Tomorrow we’re meeting at 5:20 AM to head for the bus back up to Machu Picchu. We’re spending the entire day there, starting with a tour of the town itself, which we haven’t been in yet. I’m really looking forward to that. Let’s hope there’s some sun because that’ll make for better pictures!

Gringo Bill’s has Wi-Fi, but right now it says it’s not connected to the Internet, so I have to go investigate and see if I can get a connection so I can upload today’s entry. So for now, g’night all!

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