NZ Nelson Lakes Hike to Lakehead Hut and then Saint Arnaud (Thursday and Friday, February 18-19)

First thing in the morning, we loaded our “reconfigured” bags on the bus. All the stuff we’re not taking on the camping portion of the trip is going deep in the luggage compartment. What’s now in our backpacks goes in the front so we can get them easily and head out to our stay in the first shared hut. More on that in a bit.

The tide was in as we left the Paparoa National Park area, so we took another look at the Pancake Rocks and Blowholes. This time I’d already packed my good camera, so the pictures you’ll see are all with the iPhone. Water truly did crash more spectacularly with the higher tide and it was pretty impressive!

Then we were on the road again, stopping at a small cafe to stretch our legs (and so Bruce could get his gas tank filled) before arriving in Saint Arnaud at about 1:30. After a picnic lunch, we put our backpacks on so Katie could check them for a good fit. Both Diana and I were using our own packs that we’d adjusted on previous trips, so pretty much just got a thumbs up.

Then we did our last pit stops before the 4-hour hike. The lake picture shows about where we started and where we were going–to the far end of the lake, all along the left shore of Lake Rotoiti. At the sign picture, Kirsten is getting us oriented and then we were off!

Although much of the trail was very nice, wide and flat like the picture, there were definitely also obstacles. These came in the form of rocks, tree roots, mud, rain, and flowing streams. Some of these were quite a challenge, especially getting across streams. The Active Adventures group that had just finished as we were about to start said that there were three streams with thigh-high water we’d have to wade through. Kirsten had already warned us about two, so there was potentially a third.

But here’s the thing about this landscape. The mountains are so steep that when it rains, there’s a lot of water, but it drains out quickly. We found that one of the streams had morphed into a “braided river” (where the stream is wide but as water recedes it carves out channels) that was relatively easily fordable, with just over-the-ankle high, rushing, water. The others weren’t too deep, either, or at least the places Kirsten found for us to go weren’t too bad. Still meant carefully threading our way across rocks and for most of us, stepping in water so our boots filled up, but we’d been warned that was coming. At least it wasn’t as deep as we’d thought we were going to encounter.

I didn’t stop to take pictures today because it was a “slow and steady” pace and I was near the front. Stopping to take pictures means getting passed by many of our crew, and I didn’t want to be at the rear again! Trust me, though, today with packs was a long hike that required constant vigilance to not slip on things. Our one rest stop was about 3 hours into the hike. We were all very happy to get out of the packs, sit down for a bit, and munch on some snacks. Kirsten had led the hike so far while Katie took care of Bruce and in-town arrangements, but Katie caught up with us at this rest-stop.

When we could see through the greenery to the lake, we could judge our progress by how narrow it was getting. The Lakeside Hut, which was our destination for the night, was at the tip of the lake, and finally we arrived! While we’d started in clear conditions with some sun, we ended in a constant drizzle.

The hut is a great idea. There are many throughout the country (and, I understand, in many countries around the world). These are big rooms with double-decker platforms on which are plastic-covered mattresses. They do provide some cushioning (emphasis on “some” 🙂 ), but virtually no privacy. That’s kind of balanced by low lighting so once it starts to get dark you can’t see too much anyway.

At the entryway, boots come off and stay there. When you come inside, you find an unoccupied space and put your pack down to claim it. Although they’re not all the same, the Lakeside Hut is one big room with a porch and entryway. Besides the bunk area, there’s a kitchen (just a couple of stainless steel counters with a sink and cold water faucet) and table. Everyone shares the space for food prep and eating.

The “facilities” are outside: three outhouses some distance away, and a sink with cold water faucet outside on the corner of the hut. Since it was raining, using the sink was a quick affair. All I did was wash my face, quickly! Brushing teeth waited until the morning.

Kirsten and Katie cooked dinner for us all, then brought out a surprise–champagne! Cork popping was met with cheers, then everyone (‘cept me, of course) sipped champagne from plastic cups. Dessert was a lesson in a New Zealand tradition, drinking a chocolate-type drink through cookies called TamTams. You have to gauge carefully just when the whole thing is about to melt down and fall apart, and up-end the cookie into your mouth so none falls into the drink. Oh, and you have to do all this with your hands behind your back so you can’t cheat and touch the cookie. A good time was had by all.

Then it was off to the sleeping bags while another set of folks took over the table. The hut was really crowded. Some require reservations, but this was was first-come, first-served. Just after we arrived, a school group of 23 arrived. Yikes! Some of the people who’d already staked out places volunteered to move outside since they had tents. Then everyone sort of shifted around and the kids squeezed up, some sleeping outside and some on the floor, and it all worked somehow.

I put off making my last trip to the outhouse as long as I could because I knew I wasn’t going to be making any trips in the middle of the night! Still, it was after dark when I went out there and I discovered my headlamp light is not very strong. Despite having been there once already, I found myself walking through knee-high grass in the rain with no clear idea where I was going other than the general direction. Passing a couple of places with bubbling, burbling water, I eventually got there. Whew! Coming back was much easier!

As for sleeping, all I can say is that I’m glad I had brought ear plugs. There were just a few snorers, but they were loud! And then there was some coughing and just general people noise. With the ear plugs, I slept OK.

It turned out that half of our group had decided not to tackle the second and third days of this hike, so Active Adventures had made arrangements for us to stay in town. I was very glad I’d made that decision, especially considering the weather forecast. But Diana hadn’t decided and then it was too late for other arrangements, so she was committed to the hike. (I’m sure she’ll do fine as she’s always up there with the leaders.)

Those of us returning to town came back by water taxi, in the rain. We arrived about 9 AM, and since our hotel rooms wouldn’t be available until noon, we had some time to wander. First, hot drinks at a local spot, then some time at the Nelson Lakes National Park Department of Conservation visitor center, which was pretty interesting, and dry :).

Then we checked in to the hotel with all our baggage so we could reconfigure our luggage once again to pre-camping status. Laundry, hot shower, dry boots, then catch up on email. Dinner. Blog. Lights out soon.

I’m thinking of the folks who did the hike today, who we’ll meet up with tomorrow. Because of the weather, they most likely weren’t going to make the Angelus Hut, especially considering the reports that a portion of one of the trails was washed out. Never know ’til you get there, but Katie had a back-up plan for a couple of hikes, both more challenging than I would have enjoyed, I think.

To give you perspective, our hike was 4 hours to go 11 kilometers (6.83 miles) at an essentially flat elevation of 620 meters. The hike to Angelus is 10.8 kilometers (6.71 miles) with an elevation gain of about 1,000 meters (that’s .62 miles up!). That’s harder than I feel like working! As it is, I’m thinking of Diana and the others. Wherever they ended up going, they had a good trek, I’m sure, and then in another hut (probably a smaller and less crowded one) tonight. I told them I’d think of them as I was taking my hot shower and getting dry, and so I have.

We’ll be picking those folks up tomorrow in the early afternoon, then head for Blenheim, “in the heart of the Marlborough wine region.” We stop at a winery, then are on the road again to head for our last stop on this trip. Hard to believe this is so close to being over! I’m glad I added on the week on the North Island because I’m not ready for this adventure to be over.

For now, though, I’m warm and dry and looking forward to a good night’s sleep. Yesterday’s hike and camp reminded me how much I’ve always enjoyed that type of activity. I guess camping is in my bones from all the trips we did as I was growing up. It’s kind of second nature.

‘Til tomorrow!