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Day 5 — Madaba, Nebo, Mukawer
Moving right along…literally! We had a long distance to travel in Jordan today and fortunately there were some interesting sites along the way. In today’s travels we saw a lot of the countryside. For all that it’s hot and dry and the buildings are mostly the same color (desert sand), there are discernable differences in the landscape.
I’d be very interested to see this country at a different time of year. Right now it looks pretty barren, but then it’s the middle of summer! Agriculture is actually the major “industry” here — mostly through irrigation. But a different type of irrigation than we do in the US. Instead of sprinklers spraying large swaths of landscape, here they have irrigation lines running along rows of plants with holes at each plant. The entire landscape isn’t watered, just specific plants. I can see how that would be a more efficient use of water all right, but certainly more work, too. (Of course, that may be different during the time when they’re growing wheat.)
Nancy started us off by reading portions of an article by a former Christian Science Monitor writer that talked about peace in the Holy Land, which of course begins with us recognizing the peace of God within ourselves and trusting God so there doesn’t need to be strife over resources or fear we (anyone) won’t have enough (my very quick summary).
Anyway, we headed first to Madaba (name of the city as well as one of the 12 provinces in the country), well known for mosaics. We visited a church built over an ancient mosaic work that is a large map. What’s left of it shows an area from the Dead Sea to the Nile. The way areas of the map are done shows specifics about each area — once someone explains it all it makes perfect sense! Fadi gave us a good introduction, then we went into a Greek Orthodox Church that has been built over the mosaic to protect it, to see it for ourselves.
Being a Catholic church, there are characters in the pictures and icons I’m not familiar with, one being St. George slaying the dragon. Guess I’ll have to look that one up, but it’s a great picture. Anyway, the church holds services, so during those, they roll carpets over the tile to protect it, then roll them back for tourists who come to see the map. After some time there to look around and take pictures (quite a few of us are photographers, I see), we headed back to where we had parked the bus — the government tourism center (I think).
I only mention that because inside are pictures of the current king of Jordan and his father (deceased in 1999). That’s King Abullah II and King Hussein respectively (right to left in the picture). The “modern era” Jordanian kings are shown on lots of posters, and the current king’s visage is everywhere — not one of lots of pictures, but it seems to be almost the only image that shows up on billboards and such.
Then on to our second stop, Mount Nebo. Moses saw the promised land from here but was not allowed to enter it. There was a shrine built up on the site some time ago and a covering structure is currently being built over it, to protect it. But we saw outside the view that Moses would have seen. As usual, the view was very hazy so we sort of had to use our imaginations to see the Dead Sea, but Moses saw that and past it one way, and to Mount Tabor the other way. A huge view.
There was a statue put here by an artist that depicts the staff of Moses. It’s quite iconic (and makes for a good picture!).
Next stop was a mosaic workshop and store. We got a good explanation of how the mosaics are made and pictures put together. The limestone used is all natural, coming in a variety of colors. Here I found something I couldn’t resist, so a “Tree of Life” is now residing in my suitcase. I’m hoping it makes it home in good shape!
Today we ate lunch on the bus as we motivated toward Petra. Fadi explained a lot about the administration of the country and the royal family on this trip, and we saw sheep, goats, and camels being tended by Bedouin shepherds.
Next stop: Mukawer, where Herod Agrippa had John the Baptist imprisoned. Of course, after about a year and a half in prison, he was the target of Herodia’s (Herod’s wife) displeasure. She had her daughter Salome dance for Herod and his guests at a big party, and when he said he would give her whatever she wanted in return, she, having been coached by her mother, said she wanted the head of John the Baptist on a platter. Unwilling to lose face in front of his friends, Herod made good on his promise and John was beheaded.
We didn’t walk through these ruins but were only able to see them from afar. We could see how remote and desolate the place is, though. The only saving grace are great views all around, but I don’t imagine John was able to enjoy those. 🙁
We made it to our hotel in Petra in time to see the sunset and that made us all happy campers, uh, photographers. After dinner some of us went swimming and then Maxine and I sat in the sauna for a while. It was very pleasant. After that, back to the room to do laundry and write this, and soon, I’m off to bed.
Tomorrow we’re spending most of the day in Petra (of Indiana Jones movie fame). We’ll be doing a lot of walking and I’m making sure all my batteries are charged because I expect I’ll be taking a lot of photographs with both of my cameras. Oh boy! I’m really looking forward to tomorrow! And since we’re in a higher elevation here, it’s a bit cooler. It’s only supposed to be about 90 degrees, which is a lot better than over 100 and humid. Should be drier, and therefore more comfortable. I should have access to WiFi tomorrow night, so I’ll be able to get something online. (The next night, though, is at a Bedouin camp, so I’ll have to skip an update that night!)
Enjoy the pictures!
